EXPLORING THE WINES OF BUSI JACOBSOHN

Turning heads in the High Weald — how a Swedish couple let their quietly sophisticated English sparkling wines do all the talking…

Far from the chalky heartland of the South Downs, deep in the gentle slopes of the Sussex High Weald, Busi Jacobsohn is quietly turning heads with confident and expressive traditional method wines. Though now on their fourth vintage, their story began a full decade ago, a reminder of just how much time, capital, and conviction it takes to establish yourself in the English wine industry.

The project is the work of Douglas and Susanna Jacobsohn, a Swedish couple who traded corporate structure for vineyard life. Douglas, once a Nordic marine insurance CEO, left behind a world built on risk calculation to embrace a very different gamble: planting a vineyard from scratch in Sussex. Italy and the south of France were once contenders, but the quiet appeal of the Weald, and growing confidence in the quality of English sparkling wine, sealed their decision.

From the outset, the vision was clear: classical sparkling wine made in the Champagne mould. Everything, from estate-grown fruit to long lees ageing and low dosage, reflects a commitment to tradition. They work with the typical trinity of chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier, eschewing shortcuts in favour of purity and precision.

And while there’s a certain corporate gloss to the brand, the name Busi Jacobsohn feels boardroom-ready, the reality is far more hands-on. Beneath the polished exterior lies a family-run operation, built from scratch by Susanna and Douglas — first-generation growers with a clear-eyed vision.

THE HIGH WEALD VS SOUTH DOWNS

While wine is made all across East and West Sussex, the lion’s share of production comes from vineyards nestled within the boundaries of the South Downs National Park. The limestone ridge, and the open, windswept expanses of its foothills, are home to some of the region’s biggest names, those such as Ridgeview, Wiston and Rathfinny, whose output, along with a wealth of smaller producers, has helped define the county’s growing reputation for world-class sparkling wine.

But head northeast into the High Weald and you’ll find a very different proposition. The terrain becomes more rolling, the maritime influence softens, and the alkaline soils give way to acidic clay loam over greensand — a combination that, while less celebrated than the South Downs’ famous chalk, is prized by many for the structure and fruit expression it brings, particularly to pinot-led wines.

Long overlooked, the Sussex Weald is now home to a quiet but committed group of producers. In the absence of marquee estates, this is a place of small-volume, high-intent winemaking. Here, producers like Busi Jacobsohn and Tickerage aren’t trying to mimic the Downs. Their wines may be subtler, less overtly racy, but they offer detail, balance, and a quiet kind of confidence that rewards attention

EARLY VINTAGES, BUILDING SOMETHING FROM SCRATCH

The Jacobsohns bought their farm just south of Tunbridge Wells in the village of Eridge in 2014, with no fixed plan beyond the desire to do something rooted in the land. A chance conversation with a neighbour, more seasoned in matters of soil and agriculture, sparked the idea of planting a vineyard. Around the same time, they were introduced to Ian Kellett, owner of pioneering Hampshire estate Hambledon, whose invitation to a dosage trial at the estate proved catalytic.

From there, things moved quickly. They brought in Stephen Skelton MW, the UK’s most respected vineyard consultant, to help assess the land and identify the best plots for planting. They both completed a three month intensive course in viticulture at Plumpton College, the UK’s leading wine school, and by 2015, 20,000 vines were in the ground.

The first vintage, in 2017, offered a glimpse of what was possible, but it was 2018, a landmark year for English wine, that sealed the estate’s potential. Warm, dry conditions yielded a bumper crop of exceptional quality, giving the confidence to expand the range: alongside their classic cuvée and sparkling rosé came a blanc de blancs and a blanc de noirs, the latter particularly suited to the pinot-friendly soils of the Weald.

A CLOSER LOOK AT THE WINES

So, what of the wines? There are no curveballs — no wild ferments, skin contact, or boundary-pushing blends. The focus is precision and restraint, rooted firmly in the Champenois tradition. All are single-vintage wines, made in small quantities, with winemaking handled at Ridgeview due to the prohibitive costs of setting up an on-site facility. But Douglas and Susanna remain closely involved throughout the process, working with Ridgeview’s head winemaker Simon Roberts on blending and dosage decisions.

The 2019 Classic Cuvée is ostensibly their entry-level release, though still a vintage wine and coming in at just under £40. It’s a classic blend: 60% chardonnay, 20% pinot noir, 20% meunier, with a low 4g/l dosage putting it firmly in extra brut territory. 2019 was a tough year, with April frosts following a cold start. To counter this, the estate installed a cold air drain — a mechanical system that lifts dense, cold air off the vineyard floor to protect sensitive buds. Without it, yields would’ve dropped sharply. But that’s the tradeoff of the single-vintage model: no reserve wine, no safety net.

Pale lemon with a greenish hue in the glass, the wine opens with bright citrus, lemon peel and green apple, before giving way to classic autolytic notes: warm bread, lemon drizzle cake, almond, and soft floral tones. The palate is dry and precise, with high but well-integrated acidity and a fine mousse. A citrus core runs through, with ripe lemon tart flavours leading the charge. It’s crisp, fruit-driven, and structured, yet grounded by enough autolytic depth to bring weight and quiet complexity.

I also tasted the similarly priced 2019 Rosé — a pinot-heavy blend of 48% chardonnay, 46% pinot noir and 6% pinot meunier. Here, chardonnay takes a slight back seat, allowing the pinot components to show their character. Pale, bronzed pink, a shimmering, delicate shade, this rosé offers a sophisticated profile from the outset. It’s a rich but composed combination of strawberries, fine pastry and bright lemon.

The dosage, at 6.3g/l, is a touch higher than their usual style, but still sits at the very bottom end of brut. This adds texture and lift, letting the fruit come forward while harmonising with the rich autolytic notes. The acidity cuts through it with a clean, purposeful thread, the mousse is fine, soft and mouth filling, and a slight grip from fine tannins adds structure and direction.

Whilst the Classic Cuvée is defined by the contrast between its bright, citrus drive and its deep, complex autolytic notes, in the 2019 Rosé those elements are more intertwined, yielding a more refined, assured expression. It’s a heady, sophisticated elixir which stands as testament to both the quality of pinot heavy blends from the Weald and the ability of England to produce world class sparkling rosés.

GROWTH AND OUTLOOK

Though still a young estate, Busi Jacobsohn is steadily building toward expansion. Just five of their 20 hectares in Eridge are currently under vine, with plans to scale production from 10,000 to 25,000 bottles annually. It’s a measured step, in keeping with the estate’s quiet confidence. As the estate grows, so too does its focus on sustainability. Mechanical weeding is slowly replacing herbicides in the vineyard, solar panels power winery operations, and excess energy is fed back to the grid.

International markets are already opening up for Busi Jacobsohn. With the couple’s background in global business and deep Scandinavian ties, the estate has successfully entered Norway, one of the fastest-growing export markets for English sparkling, and now sets its sights on Sweden. Navigating these powerful state monopolies that control all retail alcohol sales, Systembolaget and Vinmonopolet respectively, is no small feat, but the precise, elegant style of Busi Jacobsohn’s “Engelske bobbler” clearly resonates strongly with Scandinavian tastes.

What excites most, though, is what Busi Jacobsohn signals for the Sussex Weald. Long overshadowed by the chalky prestige of the South Downs, this wooded, clay-rich corner of the county is quietly proving itself. The wines here offer something distinct — subtle, structured, and site-driven. Estates like Busi Jacobsohn suggest that the Weald isn’t just viable, but vital: a region capable of producing sparkling wines of clarity, finesse, and real intrigue. I’ll be watching, and tasting, with interest.